Skip to main content

Everest legend Mallory and his Sikkim connection- ii

Regarding Sikkim's perspective, the first three  Everest Expeditions hold special significance for a person named Gyalzen Kazi, who was a landlord but played an important role during the expeditions. Gyalzen Kazi was the interpreter for the 1921 Everest and 1922 and 1924 Expeditions. 

It is well said that Gyalzen Kazi and Karma Paul, another interpreter from Darjeeling, had a significant role in the Everest Expeditions. Gyalzen Kazi was known more for his role as an interpreter but to my findings, he was the first mountain explorer of Sikkim.

Another interesting finding that came to me was the page of the Aritar Dak Bungalow Visitor Book with the names of five 1922 Mt Everest Expedition mountaineers. Charles G. Bruce, Edward "Teddy" F. Norton, Dr Arthur Wakefield, C. John Morris, and C. Geoffrey Bruce had signed the visitor book during their stay at the Dak Bungalow on July 29 and 30, 1922. 

Though I felt a little sad not to find Mallory’s name in the book, nevertheless, those five names were enough to rub my excited heart. Charles G. Bruce was the Expedition leader with a Brigadier rank, while Morris and Geoffrey Bruce were responsible for translation and organizational tasks. Norton and Wakefield were mountaineers with medical backgrounds.  


Apart from these people, there were eight other expedition members in the 1922 ascent to Mt Everest. Though it had been mentioned in different accounts that the first three Mt Everest Expedition teams (1921, 1922, and 1924) did stay at Aritar Dak Bungalow, I have not come across the 1921 and 1924 records in the Visitor Book.

Coming back to Mallory, ever since his dead body with his face down on the snow had been recovered, the assumptions of whether the two missing mountaineers had reached their ultimate goal had been running high. However, Hillary and Tenzing took the crown of being the first mountaineers to successfully return after reaching the summit after 30 years of Mallory's sudden disappearance.  

Everest has deep secrets under its calm silence; in between, some stories keep popping up about whether they reach the top.  Mallory had a photograph of his wife, and he had promised her that he would click the photograph of himself with his wife's photograph at the summit. 

When the search team found the body, they failed to recover the photograph from the pocket of his clothes. Some believe the photograph might have been left at the summit.  The camera that the duo had been carrying is still to be recovered, and no one knows if it will be found shortly. We might witness the lost moment of human heroics.  



If speculations are to be believed, the presence of snow goggles found on Mallory's pant pockets throws a different perspective of the event. They could be returning after achieving the summit after sunset when the snow goggles were not needed. Irvine’s snow axe had also been recovered. 

These theories related to George Mallory made him a legend, and we are still awaiting more findings that could end the speculations to their final nail. Irrespective of all these, the efforts of George Mallory need to be appreciated. His fantasy and ‘only him’ made the thought of reaching the summit of Mt Everest fascinating and appealing to all.

Published in Sikkim Express - 11.10.2020

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

History on Easter Sunday and Padari Ganga Prasad Pradhan

By Seira Tamang As noted by various scholars, Hinduism, the Nepali language, the monarchy and a rastriya itihas (a chronicle of progress in which the dark era of Rana rule is contrasted with the enlightened, progressive and modern period of Panchayat rule) formed the core of the Panchayat regime’s national culture. The formation and consolidation of this national culture have required the expunging of uncomfortable facts and stories that might raise ambiguities and questions. While the selection of what and who is and is not acknowledged to exist (or at least exist in historically important ways) in official Nepali history is complex, social scientists have begun to provide more comprehensive historical accounts of the past through oral histories and re-readings of historical documents. Such accounts reveal how ordinary people lived in the past, and offer ways to think through how ‘history’ is crafted, shaped and managed in order to reflect ‘the reality’ best suited to the status quo, ...

Shapi of Sikkim: Our legacy -iii

A Sikkimese with a Shapi The two previous articles I wrote in my earlier edition on Shapi were wonderful to read for people around, and appreciation had been received from different corners of the state. I am thankful and find pleasure in people finding joy in my findings and research work. It was a bit surprising that very few had heard about Shapi, our rare legacy.  Nevertheless, I am happy to be part of history for re-introducing Shapi to those sections of my readers who had never heard about this old and sacred mountain mammal, a native of Sikkim. I dedicate my writing on Shapi to Ongden Daju (RO), who has been very supportive of me ever since I first published its first part a few months back. It was he who wanted me to continue with the third part of Shapi since more findings were evolving after my two writings. I shall always remain grateful to JR Subba, Jt Director from the Forest Department, for providing me with a valuable census report of Shapi done by the Department...

Chogyal Palden Thondup Namgyal, with his mother Queen Mother Denzong Lhayumkusho and Prince Wangchuk of Sikkim

The late Jungkyang Chogyal Palden Thondup Namgyal, seated with his mother Queen Mother Denzong Lhayumkusho, daughter of Rakasha family of Tibet, and Prince Wangchuk whose late mother hails from the Samdrup Phodrang family of Tibet. Standing next to Denzong Queen Mother is the senior Rakasha Lhachamkusho, daughter of Raja Tsodrak Namgyal Taring of Sikkim, the eldest son of Chogyal Thutop Namgyal, who gave up the Sikkimese throne to his younger brother Sir Chogyal Tashi Namgyal in favour of staying in Tibet.  The Taring family of Tibet enabled into Tibetan high society by the great 13th Dalai Lama, is legitimately the unbroken elder line of the Royal Namgyal lineage of Sikkim, since Raja Tsodrak Namgyal was the Crown Prince of Sikkim, and his sons and grandsons today go by the Taring family name. Standing in the picture is also Princess Kukula, sister of the Chogyal married to the Phuenkhang family of Tibet.  Rakasha Tsetop, Rakasha Tseten, Yap Dr. Paljor, Soden Wangdi, Chimi ...