By Dalvinder Singh (Grewal)
A group consisting of Sardar Harbhajan Singh (Setia) and fourteen other
Sikh devotees from Delhi returned last March after a visit to Gurdwara
Guru Dongmar in North Sikkim.
Guru Dongmar is a lake at a height of 18,000 feet alongside a glacial
peak known by the same name. The lake remains frozen most of the year
due to heavy snowfall for almost six months each year. Guru Nanak
visited the place during his third udasi in order to solace the Karma-pa
Nying-ma-pa sects then being hounded out from Tibet by the Ge-lug-pa
sect. Many from the Karma-pa Nying-ma-pa sect were the followers of Guru
Nanak, as their Head Lamas became Guru Nanak's followers in Kailash
Mansarovar area after being impressed by Guru Nanak's discussions with
the famous Sidhas of the age. These sects had fled from Tibet to the
Himalayan belt of Northern India, which included Ladakh, Himachal
Pradesh, Uttra-Khand, Nepal, Sikkim, Bhutan and Arunachal Pradesh.
Records show that during his journeys to the Himalayas and the Far East,
including China, Guru Nanak visited all these states around 1516 AD.
This itinerary is found recorded in Janam Sakhee Bhai Bala; Janam Sakhee
Walait Wali; Janam Sakhee Meharban; Janam Sakhee B-40; Suchak Parsang
by Bhai Behlo; Mahima Parkash by Baba Sarup Chand; Parchian Sewa Das;
Nanak Prakash by Bhai Santokh Singh; Nanak Parkash, Twarikh Guru Khalsa
and Gurdham Prakash by Gyani Gian Singh; Guru Khalsa Twareekh by Giani
Lal Singh (Sangrur); Jeevan Charit Guru Nanak Dev ji by Dr. Trilochan
Singh; Travels of Guru Nanak by Dr. Surinder Singh (Kohli); Atlas of
Travels of Guru Nanak by Dr Fauja Singh and Kirpal Singh; Guru Nanak's
Travels to Himalayan and East Asian Region by Dr. Dalvinder Singh
(Grewal) (the author), and a host of other researchers. Though
Janamsakhis and other contemporary materials are vague about the names of
the places, they are specific about Al-Lachen Bhutan Des which are
specially mentioned in these Janamsakhis.
The local people of the area and Lamas of Karma-pa Nying-ma-pa Sect
confirm Guru Nanak's visit to these areas. The Lamas from these areas
have been visiting Golden Temple, Amritsar, regularly to pay obeisance
to their beloved Guru Rimpoche, Guru Nanak, also known as Nanak Lama in
their areas. Guru Nanak's footprints, a robe and a water-carrying
utensil (kamandal) are preserved in Lachen Gompha, Sikkim, commemorating
his visit to the place.
After his visit to Kailash-Mansarovar, Guru Nanak returned along Kali
River and went to Nepal, where an ancient Gurdwara at Kathmandu, on the
bank of river Bishnumati commemorates his visit. Visiting various
religious places in Nepal, he crossed over to Tibet through Nanak-la
pass and reached Sakya monastery. The earlier king of Tibet from
Karma-pa Sect was, by then, deposed by the Ge-lug-pa sect but was still
holding on to this monastery. Guru Nanak helped Trasung Deochung
reconstruct this monastery. Trasung Deochung honoured him with a robe
that is preserved in Lachen Gompha.
From Tibet, Guru Nanak entered Sikkim through Chhorten-Nyi-ma-la.
Passing through Dolma Sampa and Tongpen, he entered Muguthang valley
where he visited Kedang, Bendu, Sherang, Lyingka, and Muguthang. He went
through Naku la and Lawu Gompha and reached the plateau area around Guru
Dongmar.
In this plateau the yak grazers approached Guru Nanak with a request,
that: "they do not find water in winter as it gets frozen all over, the temperature falling down to minus 35 degrees." The Guru (Guru Nanak) hit
the perpetually snow-covered Guru Dongmar Lake with his stick to
provide water to the grazers. The ice melted giving way to crystal-clear
water. Since then the water of the lake is stated to never freeze. The
lake and the hill feature atop came to be known as Gurudongmar Lake and
hill respectively. The same names are found recorded in the ancient maps
prepared by the British in the nineteenth century.
Some grazers projected another problem on Guru Nanak. Due to the effect
of altitude, their virility was affected. They requested the Guru to do
something about it. Guru Nanak blessed the lake, saying," Whosoever
takes the water of this lake will gain virility and strength and will be
blessed with children." The people of the area have firm faith in
Guru's words and consider the water of the lake as nectar. A Gurdwara
was constructed in the eighties to commemorate Guru Nanak's visit to the
place. We used to trek to Gurudongmar then, after travelling from
Chungthang on foot, covering the distance in six days.
The Gurdwara was constructed after full inquiries from head lamas of
Buddhist monitories (gomphas) at Fudong, Chungthang, Lachen, Lachung and
Thangu and all the local people, and with their active help.
From Gurudongmar, Guru Nanak went to Thangu, Lachen, Chungthang,
Lachung, Yumthang and Pyakochin. At Chungthang a gurdwara, a tree growing
out of the Guru's stick, footprints of the Guru, a spring, and the rice fields blessed by Guru Nanak commemorate Guru Nanak's visit. At
Pyakochin, an engraving on stone, in Gurmukhi script, was earlier
preserved to commemorate the visit of Guru Nanak. From Pyakochin the
Guru is stated to have crossed over to Chumbi Valley through Ghora-la,
en-route to Bhutan.
This author cross-checked the above details given by various lamas from
over fifty elderly people in the area. Lachen lama even promised to show
the old records preserved with him that had an account of Guru Nanak's
visit to the area. Staying as an Observation Post Officer at the height
adjoining the lake, for over three months in 1987 and later in other
areas adjoining, the author oversaw the development of the Gurdwara.
People from all religions thronged the lake and the Buddhists had their
regular fair on the lake. They always paid obeisance at the Gurdwara
with reverence. There was no question of any ill will. A Hindu temple
was constructed in 1989 touching the Gurdwara but was removed soon
after mutual consultations.
Thereafter everything remained cordial till
1994, as regularly watched by this author, who was operative in Sikkim
and remained in touch with the Gurdwara till then. Later too, groups of
Sikh pilgrims inspired by this author kept on visiting the gurdwara
yearly without caring for the great hardships they had to face during
the travel. They had all the goodwill of the local people and have sweet
remembrances of their treatment.
A Problem, however, started cropping up only after 1998. The Sikkim
Government and the Army refused to allow visits by pilgrims to the
Gurdwara for reasons best known to themselves, as in the telegram and the
letter refusing permission to the Sikh pilgrims to visit Gurudongmar.
They gave no reasons! Now the sudden changes in the cultural traits of
the Gurdwara smack of the ill intentions of some people at the helm of
affairs, playing games with the faith of the people.
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