Singtam Heritage Post Box and its story

I was part of a beautiful concept brought by Roshan Prasad; our own popular philatelist from Singtam to re-install a neglected Post Box found lying near the old post office building at the heart of the bazaar.

In one of its kind events, the members of Sikkim Philatelic and Numismatic Society added a page on the map of the world’s postal history when we removed the neglected post-box, gave new colours, and had its permanent installation near the Water Fountain as a Heritage Post Box. An earlier Sikkim postal cancellation mark along with the establishment of the Post Office in Singtam in 1903 was written on the stone slab below the base of the Post Box. First of its kind in Sikkim and a proud place of being few in India and the world.

KN Rai, then Speaker, Sikkim Legislative Assembly inaugurated the Heritage Box at the event Inspire 2017 – A Hobby Fest. The event coincided with the 12^th anniversary of the formation of the Sikkim Philatelic and Numismatic Society. An exhibition on hobbies was held at Bihari Dharamsala, Singtam on May 30th, 2017- the first hobby fest of Sikkim. Inspire 2017- a hobby fest featured a display of stamps, coins, banknotes, antiques, matchbox collection, autographs, old newspapers, identity cards, and button flowers.

Three years passed by, we received numerous calls of appreciation; our photograph of the Heritage Post Box of Singtam got published at various philatelic magazines worldwide. We just wanted to have the name of Singtam on the world map. We succeeded today but this wasn’t as easy as it looked.

Two days ahead of the event, the place where we had decided to install the Heritage Post Box at the water fountain site; despite having permission from Area MLA, Singtam Police Station, and the Singtam Nagar Panchayat we were stopped to do so. We wanted passers-by to see the Post Box and feel proud of the century-old postal history of Singtam.

A huge section of the crowd came forward and alleged the ‘dustbin’ – the word used for our Heritage Post Box to be thrown away. In that mass, there were few good human souls who spoke for our cause. Finally, after a few hours of noise, we were forced to shift our structure to the corner on the back of a paan dokan. The crowd justified – the structure would disturb their wedding function on the way to Bihari Dharamsala. But today, on that much-chosen place we have a Police Sign Board of No Parking – and that very crowd was there to praise the efforts of the Police Station to have the No Parking Sign Board.

Goddess Kumari: the legends of its origin- i

Ten years back on my first visit to the Indra Jatra festival at Zero Point, Gangtok I happened to see a photo frame of a small girl in a red costume significantly distinct from other girls of her age with the painted third eye on her forehead. That was my first day with Indra Jatra, Newar’s biggest festival at Sikkim, and of course with the goddess Kumari, which in 2011 was declared a Government Holiday by the State Government of Sikkim. 

The festival highlighted the pulling off of a chariot by the devotees with a photo frame of Goddess Kumari on it that was moved through the streets of Gangtok from Zero Point to MG Marg. The chariot was led by masked dancers with faces of deities in honour of God Indra and a long procession of Newar devotees.

Getting back to the story of Kumari, it is said there are eleven living goddesses known as Kumari in Nepal. The Kumari of Kathmandu also known as the Royal Kumari is considered to be the most significant and largely followed by the Newar population across the globe.

In Nepal, the Newars follow an exceptional customary in which young girls with special characters are formally installed as living Kumari; regularly worshipped until they attain some biological impurities, and they are replaced with another young girl who also has to undergo some set-ups to be identified as a Kumari. The history of Kumari worship in Nepal is hidden in a great deal of legend and mystery. Though there is evidence that a goddess of this name had been worshipped for a very long time.

Him Lal Ghimire in his article A Study of Living Goddess Kumārī: The Source of Cultural Tourism in Nepal writes ‘Kumari is derived from the Sanskrit word Kaumarya, which means princess. The word Kumārī literally means “virgin girl” in Nepali. The Kumārī or Kumārī Devi comes from the Hindu faith however most of the “traditional” Kumārī in Kathmandu is from the Newar community. The Kumārī is a prepubescent girl who is hailed as manifestations of divine and spiritual energy, the living incarnation of the Hindu goddess of power Durga who is also named as Talejū (Tulaja) Bhawani, Bhagawati, Kālī, Pārvatī, Tripurasundarī, Ambikā, etc’.

The word Taleju is derived from the indigenous Newar language and translates approximately as the “Goddess of the High Temple” as it is found in the book An Advertised Secret:  The Goddess Taleju and the King of Kathmandu, in Tantra in Practice published in 2005 which indicates her status as the chosen deity of Nepalese kings dating back to the fourteenth century when this goddess likely first migrated to Nepal from northern Indian.

Most of the chronicles and oral traditions however place the origin of the royal worships in the Malla period.  MR Allen mentions in his book Kumari or ’virgin’ worship in Kathmandu valley published in 1976, naming Trailokya Malla, a late sixteenth-century ruler of an undivided kingdom with his capital at Bhadgaon, Siddhinarasingh, a seventeenth-century king of Patan, and yet others Jayaprakasa Malla, the mid-eighteenth century Kathmandu monarch who lost his kingdom to the Gorkhas among those who were involved in Kumari worshipping culture.

“Throughout India, Nepal, and other regions of South Asia there is a strong and long-standing ritual tradition—evidence of Kumārī worship dates back to the origins of India’s oldest scripture, the Ṛig Veda (circa 2000 B.C.E.)—in which prepubescent girls are venerated as incarnations (avatāra) of the divine feminine, called Devī or Śakti” quotes Jeffrey S. Lidke in his book Kumārī:  Nepal’s Eternally Living Goddess. 

Kumari is highly regarded as a deity whose blessings come true for those who attend her. As such every day, many devotees seek her blessings. She needs to follow her rituals very strictly that she cannot talk to anyone except her family members or her caretakers. As such every day, many devotees seek her blessings. A member of her family must worship her each morning as she sits on her throne. Usually, it’s her mother who dresses her every day in red clothing, paints her special design, and other marking as Kumari has to appear. She lives in her Kumari Ghar with her parents or caretakers; she can never go outside other than to attend a few major festivals during the year. When she has to attend any ceremonies, she is carried.

Legends say, Kumari used to bless the King by marking his forehead with tika mixed with uncooked rice grain and red colour. The blessing during the Kumari Jatra festival brought good fortune to the King and his kingdom was protected from evil forces. The identification of the royal Kumari with the Great Goddess reveals a key facet of her identity and function as a living divinity. She is the embodiment of power or shakti that protects the nation against any and all enemies of the state.

Blood-sucking parasites killed thousands of pigeons at Singtam (2009)

It was on the 20^th of May, 2009, I first published the news of the mysterious death of pigeons all over Singtambazaar on my blog. The pigeons were found dead on roads, house stairs drains, house roofs, and everywhere it was found. People denied any sort of Bird Flu but talked about some sort of disease in their head and die within a day.

The death of pigeons did not stop for the next one and half months and on average 30 to 40 deaths were reported. The strange death of this avian creature was published in the newspapers and one of the national newspapers went on to say more than 10,000 deaths had occurred. It was false news but to my research, the death case had been around 2000.  

I was too curious to know about its death and I closely held one dead bird from the nearby bazaar food go-down premises and found a small fly-like insect with a pointed antenna. These pigeons are being preyed to these small blood-sucking flies. Those flies carry infectious diseases that resulted in the loss of feathers on the neck and rest of the body; skin inflammation was also found. These parasitic flies could be seen through the naked eye hiding behind the feathered wings and around the neck.

On June 25^th, the press release from KC Bhutia, Joint Director, Disease Investigation Cell, State Animal Husbandry Department said “The birds getting wet during the rains created conditions conducive for the parasites to breed,” As per the official records, 56 cases of unnatural pigeon deaths over the past two months have been reported from a particular region of the state. 

This apart, a de-contamination campaign at the pigeonholes at residences has also been launched. These measures have yielded positive results and no fresh case of pigeon death has been reported from anywhere in the state over the past two weeks,” said Mr Bhutia. The report was based on the first batch of samples sent to the Regional Disease Diagnostics Laboratory of Guwahati.

Social activist Rudra Narsing Sakya donates hygiene kits

Rongli, 24th May 2020 : Social activist Rudra Narsing Sakya from Rongli Bazar today presented four set of PPE kits, two bottles of hand sanitizer, eleven numbers of N95 mask and two numbers of Non-Contract Forehead Infrared Thermometer to different officials of Rongli. The presentation of these materials was done at the premises of Rongli Police Station maintaining the social distance in presence of PR Dulal , SDM, Rongli Sub-Division.

The materials donated the officials included – Bhim Pradhan (BDO, Regu BAC), Dr. T. N. Sherpa (Medical Officer Incharge, Rongli PHC), Tashi C. Bhutia (SHO, Rongli Police Station) and Dawa Tshering Bhutia (Panchayat, 28 Rongli Changeylakha GPU).

news by Praveen Pradhan

Newa Bhay Bowney Kuthi, Singtam completed one week volunteer at hospital

20.05.20, Singtam: Newa Bhay Bowney kuthi, Singtam completed a week-long voluntary service to the District Hospital Singtam as a support to the administration in its fight against Covid-19. NBB volunteers had requested people to sanitize their hands compulsorily while entering the hospital and follow social distance norms during the registration process as per the guidelines of the administration. 

The volunteers provided masks, hand wash, hand sanitizer along with counselling to the individuals who did not follow rules and guidelines while entering the hospital.

NBB also provided one month's ration to migrant labours identified by the DMS who needed support at this hour. Dr Tempo Gyaltsen, DMS, DHS appreciated the effort of the NGO for providing volunteers and creating awareness at such a time which eases the pressure off the administration and helps them focus on other important things.

Binod Pradhan, President, NBB would like to thank Dr Tshering Laden (CMO East), Dr Tempo Gyaltsen (DMS), Mr Somnath Pandey (Sr.MSO), Doctors, Nurse and staff of DHS for their encouragement & such opportunities where the members of NBB offered support to the Hospital and also promised to provide support whenever required.

Picnic photograph of members of Singtam Driver Association

Picnic photograph of members of Singtam Driver Association-(most probably 1980s)

LtoR: Lakpa Daju, Basant Agarwal, Hira Pradhan, Aatup Lepcha,

Gandhey (गन्दे), Somaney Aaseng.

(Identified by Mohan Pradhan Neeraj)

Those suprises of River Teesta

An article published on the website of the National Informatics Centre, Sikkim under the topic of Mammals of Sikkim in 2009 mentioned the possibility of Gangetic Dolphin at the river belt of Singtam – Rangpo. The report read - Distribution in Sikkim: May exist at Singtam, Rangpo and Melli (the confluence of Teesta and Rangeet). Size: Generally 2 m in length. 

Gangetic Dolphin will not exactly be out of its range if is found to exist in our state. It is a creature found in the Ganges, the Brahmaputra and their larger tributaries to the bases of the hills. Their migratory behaviour, however, makes their presence possible here, particularly during the summer months. 

I do not exactly know the further development of that suggested research but the river Teesta does surprises you with its secrets deep within. Since the construction of dams in neighbouring states those fishes that used to migrate for freshwater to lay their eggs are no more to be found. 

I do remember three separate occasions when life forms recovered along the river belt of Singtam had made me think twice of nature’s wonders.  

2008 – A 30kg fish most probably Golden Masheer was recovered from the bank of River Teesta near Golitar.

2010 – An Indian mottled eel locally known as Raj Bam weighing around 7 kg and four feet long was recovered from the riverbank near Golitar. The local people had then reported they had never seen the species before.

2014 – A dead python 12 feet long and 1.6 m in circumference was recovered from the banks of River Teesta near ATTC College, Burdang. It was later identified as Burmese python (Python bivittatus).

Existence of the Devi lives on at Pandam Garhi Mandir

On May 8, 2020, the Sikkim state cabinet meeting sanctioned different funds through different government departments. Among these sanctioned lists was the approval and sanction of Rs.6383.00 lakhs (Rupees sixty-three crores and eighty-three lakhs only) for the construction of the Pilgrimage Centre with a 54-foot-high statue of Nishani Kali Devi at Central Pandam, East Sikkim, under the Civil and Tourism Department.

This project will definitely help the region grow and provide better prospects for tourism. Visitors who look for new destinations will appreciate the natural beauty around the mandir. The panoramic beauty of the hills across will rightly capture the exquisiteness of nature. 

I have visited this place four times, and this mandir falls on the way to the historic Pandam Garhi ruins. We had always talked about Garhi ruins, but stories related to Kali Mandir or the Pandam Garhi Mandir were limited to oral rendition and followed from generation to generation. These stories are events and a collection of anecdotes that made this Mandir grow stronger from one corner of the state to another and even beyond that. These stories are amazing and shelter self-belief to those who follow Devi and her auspicious presence.

ALSO READ -.Pandam Garhi and its surmise

Old folks of Pandam say they had heard from their elders that Devi used to visit their hills most often, and those happenings were much earlier than the stories of Damodar Parrhey’s legend. Those folks remember those who had seen Devi or felt her presence. Those villagers had been worshipping Devi Kali for ages, and the presence of the temple above the village of Karmithang is as old as its first human settlement in that region. The locals and the worshipers in neighbouring states firmly believe in the charisma of the Kali.

I have heard different accounts about Devi and her surroundings from RP Bhandari, a man in his eight decades of life. Some of the stories had lived up for ages, and a few were recent. In one such incident – a group of men was moving in the forest near the mandir when they came across a small girl. One of them had mistakenly made fun of the girl. Thereafter he got ill and had blood vomiting. Knowing they had annoyed Devi, he and his family went to the mandir that same evening and asked for forgiveness. He recovered from his illness after that.

Kali Devi Mandir - 2005

Another story says there was once a forest fire. The fire was big, and when it was about to approach the mandir premises, there was a rainfall around on the bright sunny day, and the fire was put off. Surprisingly, the rain too stopped, added the old man. There are various incidents of people visiting this mandir from far places when their child had a speech disorder and getting it recovered. Incidents where people had informed of coming across a tiger at the mandir make the place more mysterious.

RP Bhandari said he had been visiting the mandir with his grandfather since childhood, and they used to worship the tree out there. Upon asking why he was worshipping the tree, his grandfather would say, "We had been doing this for ages, and worshipping this tree would bring fortune to our area, and no ill effect would occur," remembers Bhandari. Devi was worshipped in the form of a tree, and the idol of Kali was kept later, I believe.

Add caption

Religious rituals and festivals are regularly performed at the Kali Mandir. Just below the mandir is a small water source that comes out from the muddy walls. The most famous oral narrative among the villagers says a popular warrior from Nepal, Damodar Pahrey, with his more popular name, Damodar Pande, had reached this place of Pandam after having a war with Sikkim. He was a worshipper of Devi Kali. The land then was very dry, and he had mysteriously pushed his finger into the wall, and water flowed from it from nowhere. Even today, the water still flows and has not dried up.

It is said he had washed his sword in that water. The story seems hard to believe in this 21st century, but these are legends, and people still talk about it. Damodar Pahrey was a mysterious person. In one of the books, I read that he was carried on a conch (sankha) from Kuerseong to Nepal. This was just to relate to his mystery. We shall talk about that various flying conch some other day. The chronology of Sikkim history mentions the presence of the Nepal army and Damodar Parhey in 1788-89.

An interesting anecdote shared by Arun Bhandari, son of RP Bhandari, he told me they never had any problem with water whenever they organized Maha Puran at the Devi Mandir. They never had to carry water for seven to nine days. But when there were construction works inside the mandir, the source of water would be much less than they had to be carried from nearby sources. 

The historic Pandam Garhi ruin is a 10-15 minute walk from the Kali Devi mandir. Various accounts claim to have built the Garhi, but nothing has been found correctly. My small mind shifts to the discoveries that happened in 2009. During the repairing of the walls and the construction of walking stairs, the workers underneath the shifted rock boulders and muddy debris found cannonballs like round river stones, pottery pieces, a ‘jhatoa’ used for grinding grains, stone tablets written in Ranjana lipi, burned blackened charcoal pieces and others. This finding was simply amazing, but in the last eleven years, nothing has been done about it. The carbon dating of pottery pieces and those burned charcoal could re-write the story of this Garhi. What were the stone tablets doing there? Many questions arise.

There are tales about the war between the armies of Pandam Garhi and the Namthang Garhi. They used to throw cannonballs like stones across each other and it is believed that a few busted walls found today are said to be by the strength of those stones thrown from Namthang Garhi. Though hard to believe since the distance between the two Garhi is far and wide, even more thought-provoking is to imagine the subject of the weapon technology of a couple of hundred years back.

2009

I do not know how others feel about the origin of the name “Pandam,” but what I learned about naming this place is related to one of the most hostile episodes in Sikkim’s royal history. Pende Ongmu, the half-sister of Chogyal Chakdor Namgyal, the third Chogyal of Sikkim, had successfully deliberated the murder of the Chogyal at Rabdanste and had gone hiding. 

She is believed to have been found at the fort of Pandam along with the physician who was her partner in crime; as such, the place was called Pendem after Pende Ongmu, who was later taken to Namchi, where she was put to death. The more popular name Pandam of today could be the angelized name of Pendem. The villagers do agree: Raja-rani was found hiding at Garhi, and they were caught!

Published in Sikkim Express - 17.05.2020

The name Singtam and its origin

The earliest mention of the name Singtam is found in the 1888 Lepcha-Bhutia Grammar book, where the town of Singtam was among the ten popular places in Sikkim. A travel book published in the early 1940s mentions Singtam as a small river-side town with a Post Office. What is more fascinating is that it was not the present business capital of Singtam that was a sought-after marketplace more than eight decades back. Still, a little heard of Sirubari, now angelized Sirwani that was more popular than Singtam, and people far across the remote corner of the state would walk down to Sirubari to buy or exchange “siru” with their belongings.

Singtam, at the moment, is the busiest town among the four districts, and its Friday haat is one of the most popular in the entire state. But the story wasn't the same eight decades back as it is today. Those days, the small siru bazaar of Sirubari (Sirwani) was well known. People would never mind walking all three days to reach this place to collect siru. This was the period when the bazaar at Singtam was little heard of. But all of a sudden, under mysterious circumstances, the then-popular Siru bazaar came to a halt, and today stands an isolated Sirwani that helplessly gape up at vehicles passing by!

Jay Dhamala in his book “Sikkim koh Ithihas” (1973) speaks about of a place called Sinchuthang that was visible from the Bermoik Kazi kothi. The name Sinchuthang is present-day Singtam, marked by the writer. It is familiar that in clear weather, Bermoik Kazi kothi is noticed from this town. Still, it must also be mentioned that the other little-known bazaar of Manglay (now also called Sainotar), some 14 km from Singtam towards Timi Tarku, is also called Sinchuthang. Tracing back to the meaning of Singtam, it is believed to be a Lepcha word, which means “collection of logs.” Singtam's Lal Bazaar, the present haat ghar, was more of a sand depository, and many folks witnessed wild bears moving freely across the riverbank. The Teesta River would carry logs and deposits at the river banks. The logs were collected to a considerable extent and sold to another place of necessity. Thus came the name Sinchuthang, i.e., collection of logs, later misspelled as Singtam. 

In one of its issues, “Kanchenjunga” magazine, published in Gangtok in the early 1960s, carried an article on Taksaari Chandrabir Pradhan, the man behind introducing Sikkim’s coin system. It said Taksaari Chandrabir Pradhan got the royal order from the Chogyal to cut down the jungles and set up a dweller at Singtam. He further went up to establish Rangpo and Pakyong, too. Due to a lack of past records, we know little about how the bazaar at Singtam started.