Deepanjali Pradhan
(First published in PAU, Newa Journal, Gangtok, 2024)
After hearing the word “Bhoto Jatra” people might think that the Newar people are crazy for celebrating the festival of the vest. What is so important about the vest? It is important to know what a bhoto jatra is and why it is celebrated. Well, there are no such festivals in newa community which does not explain the existence and the importance of any festivals, traditions, and rituals.
So here goes the story for celebrating “Bhoto Jatra”. According to the legend, it is said that “Once the wife of Karakal Nagraj had an eye disease which was not getting cured even after doing so many medications. There lived a farmer (Jyapu) who said that he can heal her eye problem and Nagraj let him try. Then the farmer rubbed on his body with his hand and collected the dirt and put it in the eyes of Nagraj’s wife. After which his wife was instantly cured, seeing to which Nagraj was overjoyed and rewarded the farmer with invaluable “Bhoto” out of generosity as a gift.
The farmer was very happy and showed off his newly earned, priceless vest everywhere, and drew a lot of attention from everyone. Unfortunately, one afternoon when he was done with his fieldwork he opened the Bhoto and kept it aside to clean himself. In the meantime the vest was stolen by a giant Lakhe who refused to return it, running away from the village.
After a long chase, the two reached the wide plains of Bhaktapur, where the Rato Machindranath festival was taking place and people were pulling a chariot. The argument between the two caught the attention of King Gunkampdev. He gave both the parties a chance to present their side of the story to claim the bhoto. Ultimately, he demanded that both the farmer and the Lakhe present the proof of ownership. Until they could, the king decided that the vest would remain with the priests of the Rato Machindranath chariot.
The priests waited until the last day and kept displaying the vest for someone to come and take possession. But nobody ever did. So, the priest at the Machindranath chariot displayed the bhoto to the crowd for the final time during the festival. “Who does this bhoto belong to?” he asked the crowd, displaying it from all four corners of the chariot.
No one came forward with any proof. And so, the tradition of Bhoto Jatra began, with the display of the bhoto like this to the crowd every year, the priests waiting for someone to come forth and claim the bhoto with concrete proof of ownership".
Even today, the tradition continues and as the ceremony ends, the bhoto is packed and handed to a representative of Patan for safekeeping, along with the image of Rato Machindranath, awaiting its rightful owner to come forward, again.
Rato Machindranath Jatra is marked as a reversed festival in the valley. Bhoto Jatra, or Bhoto Dekhaauney Jatra, is celebrated to pay homage to the God of Rain and good harvest, Rato Machhendranath. Known also as Bunga Dyah Jatra or the Rato Machindranath Festival, celebrated locally among Newari communities, this is a month-long festival, while the Bhoto Dekhaauney event happens on the final day. Every year, the huge Chariot of Rato Machindranath is pulled around the valley. Indeed yes, it is huge with a 32 hands long chariot linked with four ends built from bamboo poles, completed after days of hard work in Pulchowk, Lalitpur from where the journey of the chariot starts. A black jewel-studded and decorated with various precious diamond vest (bhoto) is displayed at a long chariot procession. It is believed Bhoto Dekhauney Jatra brings good luck to all.
As per the local people’s perspective and their knowledge it is said that the Bhoto shown during the Jatra is a replica of the original Bhoto. The original Bhoto is said to be on display at the museum in London. Indeed there is still suspense on how the bhoto ended up at the museum.
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